TRENDS WATCH
The mechanism of a mechanical watch is made up of six different parts. These are the mainspring, which is the source of energy; the gear train, which transmits the energy; the dial train, which governs the movement of the hands; the winding and setting mechanism; the escapement and balance unit, which controls the release of energy; and the plates, or framework, which enclose and protect the movement.
In operation the mainspring unwinds to turn the barrel, which drives the escape, or great, wheel through a gear train. The wheel moves in one direction until stopped by a pallet arm of the pallet and fork—the part analogous to the detent of a clock. The pallet and fork assembly is attached to the balance wheel, which is then given an impulse from the escape wheel.
The escapement and balance assembly are essential to an accurate watch mechanism because they control the release of energy from the mainspring and the time in which each release of energy is made. The oscillations of the balance, the regularity of its movement, are controlled with a hairspring or escapement spring. When the balance wheel moves in one direction, its tiny hairspring is wound. As the escape wheel is stopped by one of the pallet arms, the hairspring uncoils. The balance wheel, in turn, is connected to the coiled mainspring, which winds as the balance wheel moves. When the pallet and fork assembly releases the escape wheel, the wheel rotates one tooth until caught again by the other pallet arm. The balance wheel then turns in the opposite direction until the other pallet arm stops the escape wheel. This cycle continues and causes the familiar ticking sound of the mechanical watch. The escape wheel is stopped and released every one-fifth of a second. Thus the balance wheel swings back and forth 300 times a minute, or 432,000 times a day. As in a clock, a series of gears transfers the motion of the escape wheel to the hour, minute, and second hands.
To keep friction to a minimum, special bearing surfaces are used for moving parts in watches. These surfaces are tiny finely ground jewels, usually sapphires, rubies, or diamonds. They are used because they can be ground with great precision, are extremely hard, and do not corrode.